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Thursday, May 29, 2014

Gear Review: Smithcreek Net Holster

Quick Draw McGraw!

Me sporting a Smith Creek net holster
I'm not a big fan of a lot of doo-dads hanging off my person when I fish, be it on a pack, a lanyard a belt or
anything else. In fact, if I'm going to fish a certain area for a longer time, I'll take my pack and bags off and set them on the ground so as to fish unencumbered. So when I saw this net holster from Smith Creek, I just had to try it out. I don't like my net swinging around hanging from behind me on a pack getting caught on all sorts of things and they're inherently difficult to retrieve.

Professional Smith Creek model showing off the holster
The idea behind the Smith Creek Net Holster is that you simply attach it to your current wading belt, a Smith Creek Wading belt or even the belt you use to hold up your trousers and you stick the net in it by the handle. 

The first thing I noticed was that the net is held surprisingly stable. I was worried that my movements might jar it loose or cause it to pop out, but it held in place nicely. I compare this to the idea of just jamming a net into the small of my back, held only by my wading belt or even a strap from a hip-pack. This holster, I found, is much more reliable and definitely restricted the net's movement far more than any rigged solution I have used in the past. The holster itself is a very tough and stiff strap material that holds its shape very nicely but can be adjusted to hold the net tighter if desired. The clip is lightweight and durable, so no issues there. 

Probably the biggest thing is that it's super-easy to both retrieve and to put back when you need to use it. My Fishpond net, which is a pretty beefy net, fit perfectly as did a few other nets I tried out.

I can't wait to use it this summer wet wading and traipsing about the high mountain streams and lakes in search of big fish. You can get more information here. Check them out, this is a nice addition to your gear hoard. Also, check out their other products, including a cool rod clip and a handy tippet/leader trash holder.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Butt Muncher - Carp Fly

No carp will resist these hot spots

Butt Muncher carp fly

So, before we start getting complaints about the name of this fly, it was impossible to assign any other name due to the makeup of the hind end of this sucker.  We have been playing with Allen Fly Fishing's new line of carp flies, and they have been super impressive thus far.  If you bend one of these out on a carp, congratulations to you sir/maam...  You are a true american hero.  

The butt muncher has all the hot spotty, wiggly parts that carp love.  Whip this one up, rub it in some mud, and go bust some golden bones!


Hook: Allen Flyfishing MP002 #1 BUY HERE
Thread: MFC 3/0 pink BUY HERE
Eyes: MFC Sparkle Eyes gold/yellow - med BUY HERE
Tail: Ultra chenille - worm brown BUY HERE
Tail hot spot: Loon UV paint - orange BUY HERE
Body: Speckled chenille - lime olive BUY HERE
Collar: Coq de Leon hen saddle - speckled yellow chartreuse BUY HERE
Thorax/head: UV Ice Dub - tan BUY HERE


Friday, May 23, 2014

Belly Flop Balanced Damsel Fly

Expand the stillwater arsenal

As most people can attest by reading our antics on the site here, we mess around a LOT with a LOT of different patterns and materials. So, a while back when I saw the concept of a balanced fly pattern from Jerry McBride, via Phil Rowley's website, I was understandably interested.

As it happened, I was looking for a good way to present some damsel nymphs and emergers on top of and amongst the weed beds on the shallow weedy end of a lake I fish that contains some big cutthroats and rainbows. Indicators seemed to be the ticket, allowing me to vary the depth (as opposed to floating or intermediate lines), but as I watched the naturals in the water, they didn't hang vertically -- they swam horizontally (well fairly squiggly if you're going to draw a representation of the squirrelly damsels as they swim). So the balanced style fly would seem to be a great fit.
Belly Flop Balanced Damsel at work

As I began to formulate the pattern, I kept going back to a concept my friend Jeff Brooks espoused when it
Some Belly Flops in production
came to damsel coloration and imitating them. His observations of the naturals and how they reflected a lot of colors led him to design a popular dubbing mix he calls "Golden Olive Spectrumized" to go along with the damsel pattern he tied using it. His original recipe, which calls for up to 8 different dubbings and materials, worked great for me over the years until I ran out and was too lazy to go snag all the ingredients again. Instead, I looked at the pictures of damsel nymphs I had taken and ones I found online and came up with my own mix that would incorporate the needed colors but require less ingredients (see below for the exact mix) and allow people to more easily duplicate the concoction.

Rainbow trout taken on a Belly Flop Damsel
So design history aside, I began using this pattern last year and have had some incredible days on the water. I usually fish it under an indicator and find that even in choppy windy conditions, it fishes well because the wind and waves will telegraph a jigging motion to the fly as it hangs horizontally in the water.

In one instance, in particular, I was throwing leeches and chironomids with little success. Although I knew it was early, I figured the BFBD would stand a chance. Casting into the same depth of water from the same indicator depth (the only difference being really the horizontal orientation) and it was the day-maker pattern. Fish were coming out of the woodwork to nail it at the slightest movement. works.

A couple of important notes: The proportions on the pattern are ├╝ber-important. If you leave the bead too far from the eye of the hook, it won't hang right. Likewise, if you push it too close to the eye of the hook, it won't balance well either. Bead size and weight is also a consideration to achieve a proper balanced orientation. Tungsten is best I've found. And, at least in my mind, the dubbing combined with the tinsel underbody are a deadly combination on their own.

--UPDATE (3 months later): As usual, we really like to put some of the patterns to the test. The Balanced Damsel has been crazy effective in the past few months -- at least enough to warrant a couple more shots from a Brook Trout outing the other day.

--UPDATE 2: If you're in a hurry, I spent some time one evening in a huge rush trying to tie up a couple dozen damsels here and ended up simplifying the head a bit. As you can see in this photo below, the head is simply the bead, eyes and dubbing. I don't do the Skinny skin. Not a huge deal, but if you're looking to tie it simplified, this is a good option.

Brook trout taken on the balanced damsel

The balanced damsel, fished from an indicator

Material List:

Hook: Partridge Jig Hook #10 or #8  -- Buy Here --
Thread: MFC Olive 6/0  -- Buy Here --
Bead: Tungsten 2.8mm to 3.2mm (depends on hook size and type)  -- Buy Here --
Extender Pins: You can make your own from a small pin or buy them here pre-cut.
Head casing: MFC Skinny Skin (Mottled Gold) -- Buy Here --
                    & Holographic Tinsel, Orange, Med  -- Buy Here --
Tail: Wooly Bugger Marabou, Sculpin Olive  -- Buy Here --
       or Spirit River Strung Marabou, Damsel Olive  -- Buy Here --
Under-Body: Pearl Tinsel, Large  -- Buy Here --
Dubbing: Equal mix of
  -- Ice Dub Brown Olive  -- Buy Here --
  -- Arizona Simi Seal: Canadian Brown, Canadian Olive, Olive  -- Buy Here --

Thursday, May 22, 2014

BBBB - AKA Big Ben's Brown Bugger

A fly you should ALWAYS have in your box.


Ben Porter...  You are a true American hero.

Uncle Drew with a nice BBBB fish
I had to start this article with that line because this fly has turned many mediocre trips into great trips.  One in particular came on one of our favorite stillwaters in Eastern Utah.  Several times a year we go to this lake in hopes to find hungry, fat, and aggressive rainbow trout that fight like crazy.  Ben has come along with us several times, and one thing we learned about Ben is that the dude is just plain fishy.  Not only does he smell like fish on a daily basis, the guy has stillwater fishing dialed in.  On this particular trip, the water was a bit off color, so we heard Ben say "Time for the BBBB in this tea colored water."  Ben started out fishing an opposite shore line, and we saw that he was hooking up about twice as much as everyone else.  A few hours of this, and we ashamedly drifted our way over there to have our piece of humble pie.  Luckily, Ben was gracious enough to share a fly or two, and our catch rates went up enough to get our egos back in check.  

BBBB Rainbow Trout
After that trip I was asking Ben about the pattern and it's origin, and he told us that he developed it on a trip to Canada.  He had tied it on a whim, and it ended up being the top producer on the trip.  Later known as the BBBB (or Big Ben's Brown Bugger), it has become a staple in my stillwater boxes, and if I'm ever having a slow day I know that I can tie it on to start catching fish.

~ Cheech


Hook: Allen S402 #6 to #10 BUY HERE
Bead: Allen brass bead 4mm BUY HERE
Under body: Lead free round wire .020 BUY HERE
Thread: Black MFC Premium 3/0 BUY HERE
Tail: Simi Seal dubbing - golden peacock BUY HERE
Body: Simi Seal dubbing - golden peacock 
Rib: UTC wire - size sm - copper brown BUY HERE
Hackle: Whiting Euro Saddle - brown
Flash (tail/body): Krystal flash - root beer BUY HERE

Note:  This fly can be tied in a variety of colors.  The majority of my BBBBs are some shade of olive.  My favorite colors of simi seal to use on this are: peacock, bronze peacock, golden peacock, dark olive, and DW brown.  You can also spice it up with a different colored bead.

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Book Review: 25 Best, Most Versatile Flies by Al Ritt

A Fly Pattern Book

When the publisher sent over our friend Al's new book, the "25 Best Most Versatile Flies, Their Histories, Stories & Step-by-Step Tying Photos", it was immediately apparent this book was meant for the fly tying desk. The book is spiral bound, great for laying on a flat surface or on a book easel to keep it open to a given pattern without having the book close on you. Plus the cover is a sturdy construction without being a hardback inflexible book that would be more difficult to adjust and accommodate at the desk.

Now for the content. Each pattern featured has a great summary write-up talking about its history, its uses and any other tidbits about the fly, especially focusing on its ability to be a versatile fly pattern. Plus, Al's selection of patterns is a great mix of old and newer patterns, so you get a good variety of flies from which to learn. I think, for me, the biggest draw for any fly tyer is the variety in this book and the angle Al took to choose the patterns. The patterns here, both individually and as a group, really cover a huge gamut of techniques and target fish, thus making them very "versatile".

Beyond the intro and getting into the nitty-gritty tying part for each pattern, the flies are expertly photographed in a concise and logical step-by-step fly tying breakdown, allowing you to clearly see how each part of the fly is constructed.  There is also a clear material list for each pattern.

One final thing to keep in mind: While this is definitely not a true beginner's "how do I tie flies?" level book, it does include such standard beginner level patterns, such as the Wooly Bugger, the Hare's Ear and the Adam's, that a beginner would still find greatly beneficial.

If you want to buy a copy, here's a quick link. We have no dog in the fight here and get no compensation from the sales, so buy it with a clean conscience!

Friday, May 16, 2014

Callibaetis Comparadun

A Must-Have Stillwater Pattern

Back when I was a starving college student and didn't have two dimes to rub together nor any money to buy more than crappy Indian neck hackle for my dry flies, I was frustrated while fishing a great Baetis hatch as the fish ignored my mostly sinking dry fly offerings. Granted, the hackle was horrible and acted more as a soft hackle, but I was getting beat up pretty good. A turning point in my fishing life came when a nice guy down the river from me, handed me a comparadun pattern as he left for the day. My first cast resulted in a nice thick Brown Trout and I was sold on this hackle-free miracle dry fly.

Now years have passed and while I tend to gravitate to a lot of other patterns these days, the comparadun is still a great pattern and in this instance a great one to imitate the stillwater staple: the Callibaetis.

So for you stillwater guys, pay attention. This fly is one that you'll want to have at your disposal. So, in this pattern, we add a few other features not found in typical comparadun patterns. First, there's the biot body and then I also add a bit of "callibaetis fleck" in the wing through the use of Teal flank feathers. All in all, it's a pretty nice pattern. And if you've ever been on a lake during a decent callibaetis hatch, this is a pattern you will want to have in your box. You can put away the sinking lines, leeches and buggers and catch nice chunky stillwater fish on dry flies.

I've also found it's a great searching pattern on stillwaters -- even when fish aren't actively rising. You'd be surprised what a decent looking dry fly callibaetis pattern can drum up on a calm non-hatchy day.

Hook:  *We upgraded the hook to a Daiichi 1180 -- Buy Here --
Thread: Montana Fly Co, 8/0, Gray   -- Buy Here --
Shuck: Sparkle Emerger Yarn, Gray or Amber  -- Buy Here --
Body: Nature's Spirit turkey biots - Callibaetis or Muskrat Gray -- Buy Here --
Wing: Nature's Spirit Comparadun Hair, Natural or Medium Dun  -- Buy Here --
      & Teal Flank Feathers, Natural   -- Buy Here --
Thorax: UV Ice Dub, Gray or Callibaetis  -- Buy Here --

And don't forget your hair stacker: 

Monday, May 12, 2014

Simi Seal Leech

the ultimate in simplicity and effectiveness

Simi Seal Leeches of many colors

Complexity of Canadian Black
About ten years ago, I was in Phoenix on a business trip, and I decided to find a local fly shop in the area where I was working.  Like I often do, I asked one of the shop employees if they had any local patterns that they could show me.  He pointed to a wall of dubbing behind him and said "You ever heard of Arizona Simi Seal dubbing?"  I hadn't heard of it before, but I told him that I had some real seal the I used quite a bit.  He explained that Simi Seal was a completely different animal even though it bore the name "seal."

He sat me down at a vise and quickly showed me how to tie one, and man was it simple...  The whole fly was made of the same material, but it looked really good!  He gladly assisted me in helping me spend about $50, and off I went.  I would later return to the shop a few months later to tell them how great this bug fished...  I eventually met John Rohmer a.k.a. the Godfather of Dubbing.  He is the mastermind behind the great dubbings that I discovered that day, and is a wealth of information when it comes to dubbing, and fly materials in general.  He is one of the guys that I really look up to when it comes
Original Simi Seal Leech
to pure innovation in tying, and his influence is probably already on your tying bench without you even knowing it.  He has his hands in the dubbing of a lot of major manufacturers.

Since I started fishing Simi Seal Leeches, I have all but stopped fishing plain jane wooly buggers on lakes.  I have caught fish on every color that John makes, and he has told me many times "We don't make colors that don't work."  I think that about sums it up.

My favorite Simi Seal Leech colors are:

Canadian Brown
Canadian Black
Bronze Peacock
Golden Peacock
Blood Leech
DW Brown

Note: You can tie a longer leech with the fibers of Mega Simi Seal, which is the same material, just longer fibers.



Hook: Allen S402 #6-#12 BUY HERE
Thread: Montana Fly 3/0 BUY HERE
Everything Else: Simi Seal Dubbing BUY HERE

I know...  Don't you wish all fly recipes looked like that?

The video shows two effective techniques so be sure to watch them both.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

The Biot Body Primer

What you need to know to tie with Biots

biot body spinner pattern
Biot Bodied Callibaetis Spinner
Out of all the possible materials for fly bodies -- especially midges and mayflies -- I'd say biots are probably one of the more under-utilized yet cool-to-tie-with materials out there.

Let me nerd out (as Cheech puts it) for a few sentences. <NERD OUT> Biots are basically the shorter stouter feathers on the leading edge of a bird's primary flight feathers. These parts of the feather lay relatively tightly against each other to form a ridge against which air can pass over to the longer tapered and more delicate fibers on the rear side of the feather, providing lift. As such, these leading fibers tend to be more compacted against the quill and are typically stiffer than the fibers on the back side of the feather, thus providing us some nice material for fashioning tails, wings and bodies for all sorts of fly patterns. Because of this requirement for flight feathers, biots go beyond the normal goose and turkey biots you may first think of as you can always find biots on pheasant, duck, partridge or whatever. However, we'll stick to the geese and turkeys here. </NERD OUT>

In the world of fly tying, you'll typically see goose biots sold already separated from the quill, while turkey biots are sold with the whole feather intact. Just be mindful that you're mostly focusing on those shorter fibers (as shown at in the photo here on the left side of the quill).

Some will suggest you separate the biot side of the quill on a turkey feather with an Exacto knife or razor blade, but I personally prefer to leave them together. Either way is fine and won't affect how you tie.

The next consideration is really how to decide between a goose or a turkey biot. In general (I say "general" because this all depends on the bird and the quality or type of feathers you're using), goose biots are stiffer and shorter. Therefore, they make good tails or appendages for Copper John's, Prince Nymphs and other patterns. When it comes to bodies, because of the limited length, goose is not much good for bodies on patterns bigger than a #16 or #14 usually. Because of this, I usually stick to turkey biots for wrapping bodies and goose biots for tails and such. And the cool thing is that they come in all sorts of colors to imitate anything from midges, to baetis, to PMD's, to caddis, spinners and a lot more. See some awesome bug body colors here.

Just comparing a couple of average sized fibers from both a turkey and a goose, you can see that the turkey is significantly longer, but of course that can vary from bird to bird and feather to feather.

goose and turkey biot comparison

And just to show that they both provide similar results, I wrapped a body with each biot type. There's really not an appreciable difference, but I tend to like the more pronounced "ridge" provided on the turkey biot. But again, that will vary from bird to bird, so not a huge difference in the long term. So that being equal, the fact I can tie bigger fly bodies with turkey means I usually grab the turkey biots when doing bodies.

Going a step further with turkey, if you're like me, you might wonder if it's even possible or advisable to tie with the non-biot side ("lift") fibers on the feathers.
Turkey fibers

You'd be surprised to learn that, yes indeed, it's very possible to use those side of the feathers. Those feathers aren't near as durable and don't provide as nice a segmentation, but they're great on really small flies (smaller than a #20 for instance) because their tips are so tapered. You can see the difference between the two feathers here on the right. The top one is pretty wussy, but surprisingly can provide decent results.

Anyway, not the best way to go, but here's a comparison.  As you can see, the "lift" fiber did not provide a super-clean-cut segmentation line and the feather ridges were a bit weak. Probably not a deal killer, but I'll stick to the biots.

So now whether or not you choose turkey or goose, there are yet additional considerations to deal with: How to tie in and wrap the biot so that you get those well-defined ridges or a smooth body.

Well, truth be told, there are a lot of different ways people will advise you as how to tie in the biot so as to ensure the smooth vs the ridged and segmented body. Google it if you're interested. But before we go there, you're best off understanding the structure of these fibers. Then you can figure out the way that best works for you because you'll understand what part of the feather you'll want pointing where. Got it? Good.

First thing is to hold the biot up to a light source and you can see three very distinct features. First, because you know better than to cut a biot from the stem with scissors (cardinal sin #1 with biots is to cut the fibers from the quill), you'll see a fairly distinct notch. This notch will correspond to the side of the fiber that I call the "webby side". As you can see here, the webby side doesn't have any ridges to provide for that tell-tale segmentation. Whereas the "ridge" side will be the stiffer side with the very fine line of feather fibers that create the segmentation you're after.

Taking the light away, the webby side isn't as visible, but you can always find it if you have the notch identified. Worst case, if the biot is cut and you can't tell which side is which, just guess or throw it away and rip off a new one. But here's another view without the aid of a light

So here are a couple of ways to get the needed effect. To get the ridged segmentation, you want the webby side (i.e. the notch) facing the eye of the hook as you wrap forward. For me, this means I tie in the biot notch down (see the photo to the right) because I will pull the fiber up, twisting it away from me (as shown by the arrow in the first photo there). Then, as you see in the 2nd photo, as I begin to wrap the biot, the notch faces forward towards the eye of the hook. This will create the segmented look. Take a few trial and error wraps to get the hang of it. And regardless of how you tie in or twist the biot, the main thing to remember is: When wrapping, the notch or webby side facing forward gives the segmentation, the notch or webby side facing backward is the smooth effect.

So, like it says above, if you want a smooth body, the webby side needs to be facing towards the bend of the hook as you wrap it, which is basically the opposite of what's shown in the photos here. This will ensure the ridge side is covered up and smoothed out with each successive wrap.

Now, let me bloviate a bit regarding the "smooth" effect. I've churned out some decent looking smooth biot body flies over my years, but if I'm looking for a smooth segmented body, biots aren't my first choice. I'll go with thread and ribbing, peacock or even stripped quills before I use biots. First off, turkey biots don't do well at all for smooth bodies. They don't have as good segmentation color contrast, the webby portion of the fiber varies a lot in size and they are just a little too squirrelly to tie with for that purpose.  That leaves us goose. The midge pattern shown below is from an olive dyed goose biot tied with the notch facing backwards (or tied in facing up). It looks ok, but I much prefer peacock or other methods to get the smooth effect. Now that's just me and I'm sure there are a lot of tyers out there that will prefer them because they're easy to come by and look pretty good. Anyway, just my 2 cents there.

Biot Body -- Smooth

Wow, now reading through this post, that's a lot of information. Plus I'm to the point where saying the word "biot" is strangely foreign and somewhat meaningless, I've said it so many times here. Either way, hope that helps in your tying. And again, we keep some great turkey biot colors in stock, so get some here.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Gear Review: Maui Jim Sunglasses

Fishing Glasses Worth the Look

maui jim polarized sunglasses for fishing
Kipahulu Polarized Glasses from Maui Jim
So a number of years ago, Cheech somehow snaked a pair of Maui Jim glasses from our buddy Bryan Gregson and I remember his surprise at the quality and effectiveness in terms of polarized fishing lenses. Fast-forward to a few months ago, as I'm looking around for some back-up or alternative sunglasses to use with my normal Costa's. I knew the general color and style I wanted, but decided to look outside of the Costa lineup. After a few days of searching, I decided on Maui Jim's since I'd always wanted to try a pair myself.

So when I first tried on the glasses (I ended up with the Kipahulu model), I had a similar experience the first time I gazed through my Costas. "Wow, that's crazy clear and sharp". So yeah, these are killer glasses. I won't go into any sort of direct comparison of Costa's vs Maui Jim's because I like both and will be using different glasses for different situations, but these glasses are downright awesome.

Next, was the on-the-water testing for some marathon fishing sessions. Now if I have one gripe about my Costa's is that, because they are glass, they are heavier and tend to become a bit of a burden on my face after being out and about for 6 to 10 hours. Maybe I'm just a wuss. But because these Maui Jim sunglasses are a polycarbonate, they're much lighter and I was stoked about being able to wear them all day with no issues.

Beyond just the normal sun and glare protection for your eyes, the most important part of the polarization on lenses is seeing fish. These did not disappoint. Of course lens color, water color, lake/stream bed substrate and sunlight play a part in what you can and can't see, but I'd say these passed muster on both rivers and lakes.

So all told, I'm pretty happy with the MJ's and given that I've heard some great things about their customer service, I think this is a brand I can hang my hat on.

maui jim sunglasses
Me sporting my sexy MJ's with a little rainbow I lucked into

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Scuds are the Skittles of the Sea

High Calorie Snacks.

This Rainbow likes junk food.  

What do you do when you get out of the water and realize that you have literally thousands of scuds attached to your waders?

Skittle Scud
Curtis and I have a tradition of hitting my old stomping grounds at least once per year to check up on our friendly obese rainbow trout in a series of lakes.  The Utah DWR finally realized that they had the potential for making a great trophy fishery, changed some regulations, and VIOLA!! Big trout!  (Yeah.  I know... shocker.)  We have specifically hit it hard for the past two years and we have done pretty well throwing chironomids, leeches, callibaetis, etc, at them.  After a day last year, I looked down and realized that my waders were so covered in scuds that I could scoop them off by the handful.  Now, when a situation like this happens, my first instinct is to tie on something that looks exactly like the bugs that I find.  Last year I did this, and guess what... no dice.  The fish wouldn't even look at my offerings.  I imagine that if I lived in a world where skittles were everywhere floating in the air, I would just walk around with my mouth open and get enough skittles to make me nice and fat.  Yes, the green skittles are my favorite, but why would I move ten feet one way to eat a green skittle, when there are ten of them right in front of my fat, gluttonous face?  You get my point?  These rainbow trout had so much junk to eat that they didn't have to move very far to get a meal.  So how do we get these lazy porkers to eat something that is fake and not as delicious as Skittles?

Taste the Rainbow!

Two things.  First, locate the fish.  Because they will most likely be hunkered down in a spot and not really going out of their way to eat, it's critical to find what area of the lake they are in, and find out at what depth they are feeding.   Second, throw something that is somewhat similar - but different.  I knew there were thousands upon thousands of scuds and sow bugs in this lake, so I tied the scud pictured in the video below.  To make my scud stand out, I tied it a little bit darker and added two hot spots.  One on the back of the fly using Loon UV paint, and the other with dubbing right behind the bead.  Guess what...  It worked, and worked well.  I only wish that I had tied more than two of them for that trip.


Hook:  Allen N205BL or an Allen N204BL #10 BUY HERE
Thread: Montana Fly 3/0 Olive BUY HERE
Bead: 3.3 mm Tungsten BUY HERE
Over body: J:son Realskin - Green BUY HERE and Mirage Tinsel - opal BUY HERE
Ribbing: UTC Ultrawire - copper brown sm BUY HERE
Body: Arizona Synthetic Dubbing - bronze peacock BUY HERE
Hot spot: Sow Scud Dubbing - pink
Back hot spot: Loon UV fly paint - orange BUY HERE
Shell back: Loon UV fly finish - thin BUY HERE