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Monday, July 21, 2014

The Butthead Attractor Fly

It simply floats high and gets eaten


Do any of you have a fly box full of junior varsity players that you can tie up quickly and give to your buddies who always snap off their flies in the trees?  I do.  It doesn't mean that these flies won't catch fish, but I'm not about to give up one of my more complex flies just to have it hang off of a limb or rust out under a rock...  Rant over.  Kind of.

I was going to head out fishing with a few guys that had just started fly fishing and I wanted to make sure I had plenty of flies in my box that I could pass out.  I was strapped for time, so I started whipping up some stimulator variations with hot spots,and what came out of the vise was a pretty slick little bug that was pretty easy to tie.  It could either pass as a larger caddis, or a smaller stonefly - one of those tweener patterns that make the fish go nuts.  When we got to the river one of my buddies tied one on and hooked up right away with this fly so we all ended up fishing it for the rest of what turned out to be a pretty memorable day.  It was very durable, it floated high, and there was something about it that really got the attention of the fish.  I have fished this fly a lot over the years, and I recently sent some to New Zealand to fish for some finicky trout.  They are trout approved in the northern and southern hemispheres, but best of all, they simple to tie so I can pass them out to buddies. (Except for Curtis...  Tie your own damn flies.)

~  Cheech

Recipe:
Tail: Moose hair



Thursday, July 17, 2014

Flying Black Ant Tutorial & HMG Review

Heat up your tying sessions


I had seen a couple videos and photos floating around showing this method from Joe Nicklo, so I decided it was time to try out his HMG (Hot Melt Glue) method for tying flies. If you're interested in the supplies for this method, Joe sells them on his website here.

As you can see here and on Joe's website, there are some really cool patterns that you can whip up using hot melt glue as part of the fly.

HMG Mayfly by Joe Nicklo

HMG Scud by Joe Nicklo

Anyway, my concern to begin with was how well the glue stick material would take to being scorched with a super-hot soldering iron. Surprisingly, it didn't take long to get the hang of light touches and sculpting the material on the hook. With the exception of a few errant stabs and swipes, I found it relatively easy to work with and shape the flies I tied. Overall, though as you can see from Joe's website, you can really tie a lot of different style flies with this method. Definitely worth looking into.

So, for this pattern, I used the new Allen D202 dry fly hook. I think this hook is quickly becoming my favorite for flies bigger than #16. I've been tying on it for the last couple or three months and it's a great hook. The black hot melt glue did the trick on the body, although my OCD comes out and would probably do a final coating in Loon or CCG to get a shiny finish. And finally, in fishing this pattern it actually floated pretty well, so that's a good sign given that I'm floating a couple of clumps of glue on a hook. Anyway, give 'er a whirl!


Recipe:

Hook: Allen D202 #14  -- Buy Here --
Thread: MFC Premium Thread, Black 6/0  -- Buy Here --
Body: Hot Melt Glue. See the HMG Kit here
Hackle: Whiting Saddle or Cape, Black  -- Buy Here --
Wing: White CDC (try the bulk CDC option here)  -- Buy Here --

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

The Fly Airbrushing Revolution

The Copic Airbrush system


First off, this is literally one of the more fun tools and techniques in my tying arsenal. I first learned about these cool fly tying tools a few years ago and have been using them ever since. Nowadays, you'll see a lot of tyers out there that have finally picked up on this little gem, so it's not just a passing fad. Not only can you have a blast painting poppers, but the Copic Airbrush system can be used to paint crease flies...

Smallmouth bass on crease fly popper

Crawdad bodies...

crawdad fly pattern crawfish craw

And whatever else you might have in mind.


bluegill popper fly pattern yearofthebluegill


The beauty to this little system is that you have the creative power of an airbrush but with the convenience of the patented "hot-swappable" marker system. You can literally swap from color to color in a few seconds with no clean-up in between. Not only that, but the airbrush system is portable by virtue of it's "canned air" system or you can go "plugged" with a standard craft or airbrush air compressor. Plus, it's relatively inexpensive compared to other styles of airbrushing out there.

The possibilities are really endless. From the pattern coloring patches, to the airbrushes and markers, you can really churn out a lot of different fly patterns. A fun way to get started is with our plain white bass poppers from Rainy's. It's a great way to flex your artistic muscles.

Check out the starter kits and selection of markers on our store here.

To get started, here's a list of things to keep in mind:

  • The markers themselves are not fully water proof, so it's not recommended that you just color something and leave it uncoated. For my poppers, they're usually coated with something like a Clear Cure Goo or a Loon UV Clear Finish. 
  • Related to the first item, it's important to know that the UV cure products don't necessarily get along nicely with foam and especially don't like foam that's been painted with Copic markers. To get around that, I usually apply a base coat (or two) of a white acrylic paint to act as a primer. Not only does this prevent the glue from bubbling and the paint from running, but it also enhances any colors you apply to the foam because it creates a much less porous yet paint-friendly surface.
  • As opposed to what you see in the videos below, make sure to use latex or plastic gloves as the chance of getting over-spray is high when painting in tight quarters like this. 
  • If you want to get some cool patterns on the flies you tie, be sure to check out the coloring patches or the template mask shown in the video below.






Monday, July 14, 2014

Low Fat Minnow - Perch Version 2

Not so Low Fat anymore




By now you are probably pretty familiar with the Low Fat Minnow and the many shapes and forms it can take.  Also, you have probably seen our Bruiser Blend dubbing that we have been selling on the site for several months now.  Well, I developed Bruiser Blend dubbing specifically so I could get more length on the Low Fat Minnow.  I like the way this minnow swims so much that I'm blending a new length of bruiser blend to take the place of the Lazer Dub on the smaller version of the fly too.  This new version of the minnow has been a great addition to our arsenal, and we constantly get pictures sent to us showing off what the original Low Fat Minnow has caught, so give some of these bad boys a spin and let us know how they do for you. 

This new color scheme is a KILLER for smallmouth in perch filled waters, and the top and bottom colors can be swapped out to make your perch as bright or as subtle as you want.


Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Hackle Primer - Why Buy Expensive Hackle?

Good hackle = good flies


Royal Wulffs tied with Whiting hackle


Whiting Euro Saddle
I can still remember the first hackle that I bought.  It was a dun colored neck hackle that I had to save my pennies for, and it was definitely put to good use.  As much as that hackle served a purpose, it also caused a lot of frustration when I was trying to tie certain types of flies.  I can remember almost giving up on tying parachutes because the stems would twist, and I remember having to tie in two to three feathers to get the hackle bushy enough to work for some attractor patterns.  Yes, it was useful... but I think I would have been far better off buying a better neck or saddle.  It took me a while to realize that I was better off saving my money to get better hackle, so I decided I'd put my experience and opinions on hackle on the site.

Buying a top of the line piece of rooster won't guarantee that you will tie just like the "pros," but it sure does put you on the right track.  I remember about 8 or 9 years ago when Curtis and I were talking about parachutes.  He told me that he had pretty much sworn off parachutes  because of how much of a pain in the butt they were to tie.  I found out later that he hadn't upgraded his hackle for a while and that was the cause of his frustrations.  Once he upgraded to top notch hackle, it made all the difference in tying "clean" flies more easily.  This especially holds true if you are tying hackled dry flies in size 18 or smaller.

One piece of good saddle hackle can tie 4 to 5 of these.
Like all fly tying materials, cost is a determining factor when considering hackle.  One of the things that I hear all the time is that hackle is "WAY too expensive" and this especially goes for Whiting dry fly hackle.  Sure you can get an inferior piece of hackle for a little bit less money, but if you look at it from my point of view, Whiting hackle is cheaper than all other brands!!! The reason I say this is the quantity of usable feathers on a saddle/cape.  A lot of patches of feathers really look the same until you start pulling off webby fibers at the base of the feather so you can tie with the "sweet spot."  On a whiting feather, the web is very minimal, and it's very possible to get more than one fly out of a feather (depending on what I'm tying).  My point is that you will be able to tie MANY more flies out of a whiting cape/saddle than you would with an inferior cape/saddle.

This was tied with bronze cape feathers.
As far as the grading system with Whiting, I mostly tie with bronze or pro grade hackles.  Some of my favorites are the Hebert Miner pro grades because they come in some really buggy colors, and they are probably the best bang for the buck when it comes to good dry fly hackle.  I would buy silver, gold, and platinum if the bronze and pro grade weren't so good...  

Check out the video for more information on capes, saddles, and a comparison between modern hackle and the hackle from 15 years ago. And don't forget we carry some awesome Whiting products, including dry fly capes, saddles, soft hackles and etc etc. We even have the elusive Euro Saddles in the store.
~ Cheech

For more videos showing Whiting hackle in use:
Royal Wulff
Amphibious Damsel
Fripple Green Drake
Grumpy Frumpy
2 minute Mayfly

Hackle Primer video...

Monday, July 7, 2014

Dry Fly Fishing with a Nymphing Rod

Whodathunk?

As I wrote about last year, I ended up getting a fancy Allen Icon 10 foot 4 wt rod for Euro style nymphing.
Since then I've put a lot of mileage on this rod and it's pulled in a lot of fish. One of my initial hesitations about going with a 10 foot "specialty" rod was the thought that I'd have to go to a different rod when fishing dries. Now granted, you won't fish the same leader setup on a dry fly rig than you would with a euro rig, but I was still worried about how it would cast and affect my presentation of delicate dries to big attractors.


Allen Icon Series Rod
So I ended up working the 10 footer into my dry fly fishing repertoire for the past few months and have really been impressed with the results. Rather than thinking I'd throw the 10 footer when I didn't want to nymph but still go to the 9 footers for normal dry fly fishing, I've now ended up opting to reach for the 10 footer for most of my small stream and river situations.

Here are some points of interest in case you want to consider a nymphing rod that can be used for double duty:


  • Similar to the concept of using the longer rod to control your line and presentation for nymphs, the same applies to dry flies. Duh. Bigger dries on a smaller water produced more fish on my 10 footer than I think I would have seen with the shorter "small stream" rods I have due to drag control and presentation factors. I was really impressed with the way I could flip a bit of leader out with the fly and maintain a totally drag free drift by virtue of that added rod length. I was reaching over crazy side currents and working flies into back eddies and pockets I don't think I would have been able to with a shorter rod.
  • Related to the idea above, I've found that mending line with a 10 footer is also a much easier and accurate process than with a shorter rod. More line control again. Better drifts. More fish.
  • I was initially worried about going from my 7 1/2 foot or 9 foot rods to a 10 footer and tangling with the trees and overhanging branches or bushes. What I found was that yes, I had to be a bit more mindful of my casts and rod placement, but this was offset by the fact that I wasn't doing as much false casting due to the longer reach of the rod. Plus, when needing a bow-and-arrow style cast, the 10 footer did an excellent job at flinging the fly into confined spaces.
  • As I mentioned initially, if you're going to Euro nymph and then expect to just tie on a dry fly with the same leader setup, you're not going to have as smooth a casting or presentation motion -- especially with smaller lighter dries. I've done well with bigger attractor patterns and it works ok. But to get the best performance, you'll want to swap out leaders. Going with a loop-to-loop connection or something similar that's easy to swap out will pay dividends.
  • Think of it this way: You can't as easily pull out a 9 foot rod and do the tight-line or Euro style nymphing as you can use a 10 foot rod for dry fly fishing. Ideally, you have a specially-trained rod monkey that holds your specialty rods and follows you around on the water all day swapping out your rods like a caddy does on the PGA tour. But until then, I'm leaning more towards a 10 footer as more of an all-around rod in a lot of situations.
  • Now, one minor complaint: Probably the only downside for me on a 10 footer has been the extra workout my arm and wrist will get. At first I chalked it up to being out of shape, but I've since found that I definitely have more sore muscles and aches after throwing the 10 footer all day. Euro-style nymphing alone, with your arm cocked like it is will definitely do that, but I think the longer length just requires a bit more force (think of the force it takes to open a really wide door vs a shorter door). And not a big deal, but something worth mentioning.

Anyhoo...that's just my two cents on the matter. Everyone will be different, but for me, the next couple of rods on the radar for purchase are both 10 footers. I think they're definitely worth a 2nd look.

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Un-Matching the Hatch

Sometimes you gotta go against the grain

brown trout taken on blingnobyl ant
A Brown trout took kindly to the Pink Bling
On a recent trip to the river expecting some big fish on some big bugs, we weren't disappointed as we arrived on the water to begin the flogging. Bugs were everywhere:  caddis, stoneflies, a few mayflies and some nice juicy cicadas. Knowing the bigger fish will often target the bigger meals, I tied on a big chunky cicada pattern and began hucking it into the promising spots. An hour later and only a couple of fish to hand and I tried a stonefly pattern hoping that would be the ticket. Not a bite. 

Cheech was having similar results as we switched off throwing different patterns at a very fishy looking seam. Time to change it up. Similar to George Costanza's opposite day, as Jerry puts it, "If every instinct you have is wrong, then the opposite would have to be right." So, as these fish obviously didn't care much about our hatch-matching attempts, I figured it was time to do something unconventional and bust out a new favorite: the Blingnobyl Ant. And as we've written previously here and here, the Blingnobyl ant has been a stellar addition to the dry fly arsenal.

brown trout attractor pattern
Another Pink Bling 
The Pink Blingnobyl wasn't going to win any hatch-matching contests yet, it began to immediately produce results. The rest of the day consisted of throwing this gaudy pink attractor pattern into the holding lies and it was topwater carnage.

A pile of fresh Blingnobyl Ants
Granted we've had some great results with this pattern in recent months, but it just goes to show that sometimes you have to shake conventional hatch-matching convention and do something so crazy it might just work. And work it did.








If you missed it the first time around, here's the recipe and the video tutorial:

Thread: UTC GSP 100 Red
Under-body: Pearl Cactus Chenille or Estaz -- BUY IT! --
Body: Glitter Craft Foam (Pink) -- BUY IT! --
Legs: Rainy's Barred Rubber Legs -- BUY IT! --
Indicator: 2mm white craft foam