Aero Baetis v 2.0

A Solid Mayfly Nymph



Since I first featured and did a tutorial on the original Aero Baetis here almost three years ago (crazy how time flies) and true to form on most any pattern I work with, I've come to tweak a few aspects of the fly that I feel make it an even better performer.

Update: We now have these in stock on the store. Buy them here.

The first major change was the hook. I've become less a fan of the 200R style hooks with the small gap and long bend like that. I don't think the shape and small gap give me much more than a stronger, larger gaped hook. Granted, they give you an awesome natural-looking shape to a finished fly and as I've heard some people mention, the smaller tapered gap might serve to obfuscate the overall hook shape. But given that any fish taking a fly will have to ignore the ginormous hook appendage coming out of the insect's butt, I find myself tying more in wider gaped hooks and not worrying about that little aspect of it. Plus, getting beads on those hooks can be a nightmare.

I also updated the body and ribbing material to something less bulky and more flashy. The thorax is now a half-and-half natural/synthetic material in the Hare'e Ice Dub -- one of my favorite nymph dubbings.

And not only does this style nymph play well as a Blue Winged Olive nymph, I use it almost as often for PMD nymphs and Callibaetis nymphs. You just need to swap out the appropriate colors and mess with sizing a bit.

Material List


Hook: Daiichi 1550, #14-#18 (+)
Thread: Danville 70 Denier, Olive (+)
Thread 2: Danville 70 Denier, Fl. Orange (+)
Bead: 2mm Tungsten (2.4 on #14), Black Nickel (+)
Tail: Coq De Leon Tailing Fibers, Med Dun  (+)
Body: Veevus Holo Tinsel, Med, Brown (+)
Ribbing: Dyed Pearl Flashabou, Olive (+)
Thorax: Hare'e Ice Dub, Olive Brown (+)
Wing Case: Nymph Skin, Bronze/Tan - Clear (+)
                   or Fino Skin, Brown (+)




Other Tools, materials:
Loon UV Fluorescing Clear Fly Finish (+)
Stonfo Combo Comb/Brush (+)